1. Took the free shuttle to Matajer shopping center tonight for the last time, not really to buy groceries (why buy groceries 24 hours before departure?), but to visit the place one last time. En route the shuttle driver, a kind Indian man, asked, "Where's Madame tonight?"
2. Got a man'oushe with soujuk (a spicy sausage that's popular in Armenia and parts of Lebanon, but is often on menus at man'oushe stands all over the region) and cheese at the bakery there. The woman at the cash register asked, "Where's Madame tonight?" Only took a couple months to become "regulars" at the closest bakery. I told her Nicole's already in the U.S. and that I'm joining her tomorrow. "Going on holiday?" she asked. I was really sad explaining to her that the U.S. is home. She was, too, and I don't think it's just because she's losing a loyal customer.
3. A gaggle of Catholic nuns was walking around the shopping center. I'm kicking myself for not introducing myself, because now I'm wondering what in the world a group of nuns was doing in Sharjah. Nuns rarely go on holiday, what with the vow of poverty, and nobody really goes on holiday here in June. There are a couple Christian churches in Sharjah, and ex-pats are free to worship as they please (the sheikh even donated a bunch of land on which to build churches for us, which was a pretty cool thing to do actually), BUT...proselytizing is very illegal.
4. Earlier, my friend Hamada and his family took me out to lunch in al qasbah neighborhood for some great Lebanese food (Shababeek restaurant) and company. A nice farewell lunch with a great new friend.
Sunday, June 2, 2013
The international language of the photo-op
Abu Dhabi Crown Prince sits by roadside with ‘lost’ schoolgirl till dad comes for her
Really interesting news report. The story mostly serves as an extended caption for this picture:
The story is a features story, not a news report, and, really, is not all that different than coverage given to royal families in the West. I could totally see a story about a member of the British monarchy doing something kind to a person-on-the-street. It makes for a cute story. Fascination with the life of royals is something that exists in the "East" and the "West." And the notion and function of "the photo-op" also crosses cultural boundaries.
What is more interesting to me, though, is the tone of the article. Granted, this is from a feature story, not a front page news story, but, still, note the tone: "In another incident that shows the great humility and love that the leaders of the UAE have for their people..." The press does not necessarily have the prerogative to critique leaders here, to be sure. And there's a tradition (which is the case in most monarchies) of speaking in flowery language about royals. The story goes on to list a bunch of words of praise that various people on facebook used when they saw the picture: "Like son like father. God bless the UAE."
Actually, this reminds me of how conservative a.m. radio shows in the U.S. describe American media's descriptions of Barack Obama.
Tuesday, May 28, 2013
Bahrain
Nicole and I decided that Bahrain was our honeymoon, even though our trip there came nearly fourteen years after our wedding. On our last weekend together in the Emirates (at least this trip!) we took a very short flight from Sharjah Emirate to the island nation of Bahrain and found the country pretty, interesting, and maybe best of all distinct from other places we've visited in the region.
Bahrain's actually a collection of islands (think of Hawaii) but they're small and very close to one another. If not for the constant vistas of the blue waters of the gulf, you wouldn't even notice you were crossing a bridge from one island to the next. Bahrain's one of the only countries where Shi'a Muslims comprise a majority, though the Kingdom is ruled by Sunni royalty closely aligned to the ruling families of Saudi Arabia and the Emirates. The ruling elite has kept recent demonstrations and uprisings pretty much in check and we saw absolutely no evidence of the protests, even in the capital city of Manama where a lot of the demonstrations have occurred.
Bahrain's connected to Saudi Arabia by a 20-kilometer bridge which facilitates easy travel between the countries (at least for Saudis and Bahranis--it's hard for non-Muslim Westerners to get visas to Saudi unless they work there), and there are loads of Saudis most everywhere in Bahrain. They're visible because they are generally wearing traditional Gulf Arab clothing. Their money is everywhere too. Literally. When you buy something, you often get part of your change back in Saudi money.
We stayed right on the beach (thus it felt like a honeymoon) and swam A LOT during the weekend. The Persian Gulf is very warm, very salty, and very blue. Good seafood, of course, and one night we ate at a little dive along the water and had grilled kingfish (very popular all over the Gulf), and also a really rich and tasty combination of shrimp and crab meat in a cream sauce. The National Museum was walking distance from our hotel, so we managed to learn quite a bit about the ancient civilization that inhabited present-day Bahrain: the Dilmun, made famous in the Epic of Gilgamesh as the dwellers of an island where nobody gets sick. Fun fact: The Dilmun created burial mounds, humongous ones, and buried the dead with sacrificial snakes housed in their own decorative bowls. The Qulat-al-Bahrain, the centuries-old fort, is the very, very unique centerpiece of the island's heritage. The outermost walls were built during Portuguese colonization but inner portions are much older, for example, dating to early Islamic dynasties who ruled here just a few years after the birth of Islam.
One of the great things about the region is that, if you love history, you can learn about eras and peoples more obscured compared the Greeks and Romans. It's one of the reason going to Petra, Jordan, home of the Nabateans, is so unforgettable. Same goes for visiting Bahrain and finding out about the Dilmun.
Pics here.
Bahrain's actually a collection of islands (think of Hawaii) but they're small and very close to one another. If not for the constant vistas of the blue waters of the gulf, you wouldn't even notice you were crossing a bridge from one island to the next. Bahrain's one of the only countries where Shi'a Muslims comprise a majority, though the Kingdom is ruled by Sunni royalty closely aligned to the ruling families of Saudi Arabia and the Emirates. The ruling elite has kept recent demonstrations and uprisings pretty much in check and we saw absolutely no evidence of the protests, even in the capital city of Manama where a lot of the demonstrations have occurred.
Bahrain's connected to Saudi Arabia by a 20-kilometer bridge which facilitates easy travel between the countries (at least for Saudis and Bahranis--it's hard for non-Muslim Westerners to get visas to Saudi unless they work there), and there are loads of Saudis most everywhere in Bahrain. They're visible because they are generally wearing traditional Gulf Arab clothing. Their money is everywhere too. Literally. When you buy something, you often get part of your change back in Saudi money.
We stayed right on the beach (thus it felt like a honeymoon) and swam A LOT during the weekend. The Persian Gulf is very warm, very salty, and very blue. Good seafood, of course, and one night we ate at a little dive along the water and had grilled kingfish (very popular all over the Gulf), and also a really rich and tasty combination of shrimp and crab meat in a cream sauce. The National Museum was walking distance from our hotel, so we managed to learn quite a bit about the ancient civilization that inhabited present-day Bahrain: the Dilmun, made famous in the Epic of Gilgamesh as the dwellers of an island where nobody gets sick. Fun fact: The Dilmun created burial mounds, humongous ones, and buried the dead with sacrificial snakes housed in their own decorative bowls. The Qulat-al-Bahrain, the centuries-old fort, is the very, very unique centerpiece of the island's heritage. The outermost walls were built during Portuguese colonization but inner portions are much older, for example, dating to early Islamic dynasties who ruled here just a few years after the birth of Islam.
One of the great things about the region is that, if you love history, you can learn about eras and peoples more obscured compared the Greeks and Romans. It's one of the reason going to Petra, Jordan, home of the Nabateans, is so unforgettable. Same goes for visiting Bahrain and finding out about the Dilmun.
Pics here.
Wednesday, May 22, 2013
What is Emirati cuisine?
It's almost as difficult to answer that question as it is to answer the question "What is U.S. cuisine?" Emiratis are in the minority (somewhere around 15-20% of the population) in the Emirates, which partly explains why "Levantine" (Lebanese, Syrian, etc.) Arab dishes, not to mention Indian and Iranian foods, are more common here. And for a whole host of cultural and historical reasons, Lebanese and Indian folks are more likely to open restaurants, which makes their cuisine more accessible and familiar to outsiders. (I remember when the Super Bowl came to Detroit in 2006 and the local papers tried to tell visitors what "Detroit foods" they should try: shawarma sandwiches, gyros, coney hotdogs...)
Anyway, our friend Rana took Nicole and I to the northern Emirates yesterday. Rana and I needed to conduct some interviews at a college in Ras al Khaima (RAK for short) and, of course, Nicole's goal is to visit all seven Emirates while we're here, so she joined us for an interesting drive an hour or so north of Sharjah through the desert. The work at the University went well after an exciting diversion. We stopped in "downtown RAK" to get directions at a cell phone store. The manager, a Syrian like Rana, happily offered to have us follow him to the campus since the route there is confusing thanks to road construction. We inadvertently followed the wrong car. Our "lead car" pulled into a driver's training facility, which seemed odd. We pulled up next to the car, which had tinted windows, and the driver didn't roll down his window, which also seemed odd. Two Indian guys got out--that seemed oddest of all. We laughed pretty hard at that point, got directions, and were on our way.
We met with various administrators at the small, "start up" campus and had a productive couple of hours. Afterward, cruising RAK, Nicole spotted a traditional Emirati cafe along the Gulf (here's where the cuisine comes back into the story...): low tables, outdoor seating on cushioned benches, no plates and silverware--sharing from common bowls is the norm--unless you really pester the waiters, great views of the water, no ladies present except Nicole and Rana. Is Emirati eating really all that different from other Arab restaurants? Put it this way: they didn't have bread. Yes, you heard that right. No pita. No khoobez.
We shared some interesting dishes. Dango, actually more South Asian than Emirati, is like a boiled chickpea dish with lots of cumin sprinkled on top. Harees is also pretty hard to connect to one specific geographic or cultural group--we had it in Armenia and Lebanon too and it's very popular in Iraq, especially around Ashoura commemorations. It's boiled wheat and chicken, cooked down into a porridge (Rana hates it). Fu'ul (fava beans) was served room temperature with salt and lemon. More "purely" Emirati was the sweet treat khabees, a kind of paste made from sugar and semolina (and possibly saffron and cardamom--any experts out there?). So even a traditional Emirati cafe is cosmopolitan and hybrid, but very very tasty.
Anyway, our friend Rana took Nicole and I to the northern Emirates yesterday. Rana and I needed to conduct some interviews at a college in Ras al Khaima (RAK for short) and, of course, Nicole's goal is to visit all seven Emirates while we're here, so she joined us for an interesting drive an hour or so north of Sharjah through the desert. The work at the University went well after an exciting diversion. We stopped in "downtown RAK" to get directions at a cell phone store. The manager, a Syrian like Rana, happily offered to have us follow him to the campus since the route there is confusing thanks to road construction. We inadvertently followed the wrong car. Our "lead car" pulled into a driver's training facility, which seemed odd. We pulled up next to the car, which had tinted windows, and the driver didn't roll down his window, which also seemed odd. Two Indian guys got out--that seemed oddest of all. We laughed pretty hard at that point, got directions, and were on our way.
We met with various administrators at the small, "start up" campus and had a productive couple of hours. Afterward, cruising RAK, Nicole spotted a traditional Emirati cafe along the Gulf (here's where the cuisine comes back into the story...): low tables, outdoor seating on cushioned benches, no plates and silverware--sharing from common bowls is the norm--unless you really pester the waiters, great views of the water, no ladies present except Nicole and Rana. Is Emirati eating really all that different from other Arab restaurants? Put it this way: they didn't have bread. Yes, you heard that right. No pita. No khoobez.
We shared some interesting dishes. Dango, actually more South Asian than Emirati, is like a boiled chickpea dish with lots of cumin sprinkled on top. Harees is also pretty hard to connect to one specific geographic or cultural group--we had it in Armenia and Lebanon too and it's very popular in Iraq, especially around Ashoura commemorations. It's boiled wheat and chicken, cooked down into a porridge (Rana hates it). Fu'ul (fava beans) was served room temperature with salt and lemon. More "purely" Emirati was the sweet treat khabees, a kind of paste made from sugar and semolina (and possibly saffron and cardamom--any experts out there?). So even a traditional Emirati cafe is cosmopolitan and hybrid, but very very tasty.
Sunday, May 19, 2013
Saturday, May 18, 2013
Iranian cuisine
Brunch is trendy in nearby Dubai, especially on Fridays. Schools and most workplaces shut down on Friday to honor the Islamic day of prayer, so many people choose to sleep late and meet up with friends for a big meal around 1:00 or so. From what we've heard some of the brunches are opulent--sushi, chocolate fountains, champagne (drinking is legal in Dubai, unlike Sharjah), prime rib, Arabic mezzes and sweets--and can cost upwards of 400-500 dirhams (over $100). Too pricey for us, but Nicole and I found a brunch option that sounded like an interesting, affordable, less touristy experience: The Iranian Club.
The Iranian Club provides a kind of cultural home for Iranians living in the UAE, hosting programs and events and also a beautiful restaurant where Vali Heydari, shown above with yours truly, takes great pride in his craft. I made him promise to contact me if he ever decides to open a restaurant in the U.S.; in fact, if you look closely, he's holding my card.
Vali's version of "Friday brunch" is popular with Iranian families, in fact I only noticed one other Western couple, but anyone's welcome (women must cover their heads). At 75 dirhams (about $20) for the buffet, it's probably the most expensive meal we've eaten here, but definitely worth it. My favorites were the ghalie mahi, a fish stew with greens, and the ash e reshte, a popular breakfast soup with greens, garbanzo beans, and pasta. Nicole was partial to the rice dishes, most of which had some combination of saffron, herbs, and dried fruits including currants.
They also have great dolmas. They stuff tomatoes, baby zucchini, and baby eggplant. Middle Eastern mezze, pretty much obligatory on any buffet, are good too, especially the baba ghanooj which they top with fresh pomegranate seeds. Khorake goosht was lamb shank falling off the bone (it looked and tasted like goat but Vali says it's lamb so I believe him). Excellent meal. Now to convince the chef to move to Michigan.
The Iranian Club provides a kind of cultural home for Iranians living in the UAE, hosting programs and events and also a beautiful restaurant where Vali Heydari, shown above with yours truly, takes great pride in his craft. I made him promise to contact me if he ever decides to open a restaurant in the U.S.; in fact, if you look closely, he's holding my card.
Vali's version of "Friday brunch" is popular with Iranian families, in fact I only noticed one other Western couple, but anyone's welcome (women must cover their heads). At 75 dirhams (about $20) for the buffet, it's probably the most expensive meal we've eaten here, but definitely worth it. My favorites were the ghalie mahi, a fish stew with greens, and the ash e reshte, a popular breakfast soup with greens, garbanzo beans, and pasta. Nicole was partial to the rice dishes, most of which had some combination of saffron, herbs, and dried fruits including currants.
They also have great dolmas. They stuff tomatoes, baby zucchini, and baby eggplant. Middle Eastern mezze, pretty much obligatory on any buffet, are good too, especially the baba ghanooj which they top with fresh pomegranate seeds. Khorake goosht was lamb shank falling off the bone (it looked and tasted like goat but Vali says it's lamb so I believe him). Excellent meal. Now to convince the chef to move to Michigan.
Wednesday, May 15, 2013
Sheih Zayed Grand Mosque, redux
Okay, I went to the Grand Mosque back in February, before Nicole arrived, with a group from my University. It's probably the most magnificent site to visit in the entire country. It's down in Abu Dhabi, by far the largest of the emirates and the one farthest from Sharjah. Abu Dhabi is about a two-hour drive south, so the ideal thing to do on the second of our two days with the rental car. Here are Nicole's pictures of the Mosque--it's well worth clicking through and checking them out, as the place is breathtaking. I won't repeat all the cool facts about the SZGM, just one: the main prayer room has the largest carpet in the world. Okay, two: it also has the third largest chandelier. Just check it out--it's United Arab Emirates prestige and extravagance in service to a holy place instead of a shopping mall! Check it.
Saturday, May 11, 2013
Lebanon
I'm totally going non-chronological here, so apologies for any and all confusion. Last week's visit to Beirut was long overdue, and a highlight of my sabbatical to be sure. Stayed in the same apartment where we lived in 2010-2011, ate at the same amazing man'oushe stand (Snack Faysal) every morning, and best of all caught up with good friends: Karine, Nancy, Rula, Amy, Lina, Lisa, Malakeh, Zane, and Rima. I have lived in places much longer than the year I spent living in Lebanon and struggled to make close friends in those other places. Sometimes, a place just becomes a home, one of your homes, and you have to express thankfulness for the blessing of having more than one such place. Out for lunch with the gang from the English Department at the school I visited during that year, a friend said one of the nicest, most gratifying thing anybody has ever said to me: "you really fit in here." For a person who has always struggled to do just that, those words meant so much to me.
Walking around the Hamra neighborhood, drinking at the best coffee shop in Beirut, seeing the same faces at the money change stands and on front stoops...man what a warm, exciting city. I thought we had combed every inch of the small country during that year, but Karine showed us otherwise--Our Lady of Zahle shrine and the Jesuit dairy farm (a lakeside bike ride!) in Tannayel, both in the Bekaa; the monastic cell and adjacent shrine to the Maronite saint Mar Charbel; a seaside restaurant in Byblos for a plate of echnidia fruit. A perfect long weekend. It was as hard to leave this time as it was in 2011.
Walking around the Hamra neighborhood, drinking at the best coffee shop in Beirut, seeing the same faces at the money change stands and on front stoops...man what a warm, exciting city. I thought we had combed every inch of the small country during that year, but Karine showed us otherwise--Our Lady of Zahle shrine and the Jesuit dairy farm (a lakeside bike ride!) in Tannayel, both in the Bekaa; the monastic cell and adjacent shrine to the Maronite saint Mar Charbel; a seaside restaurant in Byblos for a plate of echnidia fruit. A perfect long weekend. It was as hard to leave this time as it was in 2011.
Friday, May 10, 2013
East coast
Today, for the first time, I drove in the Middle East. Nicole and I rented a tuna can, I mean car,
and headed for the East Coast (the Arabia Sea side) of the Emirates. I’ve gone swimming on the Persia Gulf side
several times, but wanted to experience the other coast as well, and Nicole’s
goal is to go to all seven emirates before going home. Also we’ve been leaning on our dear friend
Rana so much that we felt her car needed a break. So we decided to take the plunge. Felt so liberating and self-sufficient. Who knows, maybe I’ll even drive in Lebanon
next time I’m there.
Anyway, we drove through the Hajar Mountains, spooky black
peaks that span much of the Eastern Emirates as well as parts of Oman. It was hot, high 90s for those of you who are
Farenheit fans, but the tuna can was nicely chilled. First stop, Musafi (rhymes with Yousefy, our
nephew’s nickname!) in the Emirate of Fujairah.
Some say the idea of the “drive through” originated in Musafi. You can pull up alongside and make purchases
from produce vendors and guys selling local pomegranate juice, coconut water,
and corn on the cob with lime and salt.
Really lovely, and with few of the modern trappings of Dubai. Also, rug sellers line the streets with
Iranian and Afghani imports.
On to Fujairah Emirate’s main port city. Coolest thing about Fujairah, Fujairah: the
roundabouts. It looks a lot like
Sharjah, Sharjah, except that most roundabouts boast some type of enormous
sculpture or statue in the middle. You
have the incense burner roundabout, the boat roundabout, the rose water
decanter (I think it’s just a pitcher, but Nicole named it as such) roundabout,
and the coffee pot roundabout which comes surrounded by huge clay cups. Very nice.
Also, delicious Lebanese restaurant called Al-Meshwar where we enjoyed a
late breakfast of fo’ul (fava beans), olives, cheese bread, and tea.
Headed north along the sea and passed through Khor Fakkan
and other coastal towns that look much older than Dubai and Abu Dhabi and even
Sharjah, and with a fraction of the traffic.
Aside from a couple oil refineries (dead give-away), the East Coast
almost looks pre-oil. We stopped in
Badiyah to see the old minaret-free mosque, allegedly from the 1400s, and the
two ancient looking watchtowers above it.
Climbing the old stone steps to the watchtowers may have been the
hottest moment of our time in the UAE. I
mean, great view of the mosque, the sea, a date palm oasis…but THE HEAT!
Kept going north to Dibba.
Dibba is a fishing village. Part
of the village is technically in Sharjah, part in Fujairah, and part in a
totally different country: Oman.
Weird. We wanted to hit the beach
in Dibba but mostly the coast there is stony and full of fishing boats. So we backtracked a bit down the coast and
found a pristine looking area. No
changing facilities so we got pretty creative with a skirt and a big beach
towel. Voila, ready for the sea. Okay, the Arabia Sea can be violent so we
didn’t go very deep. The water felt
amazing after exploring those watchtowers in Badiyah, until a wave knocked me
on my ass and sent my sunglasses flying.
As in my prescription sunglasses that I can’t drive without even on
sunny days in North America. I was sure
they were gone, crazy waves crashing all around us, but Nicole spotted
them. I pounced, knee making contact
with a huge rock, and missed the glasses as a big wave came in. The wave retreated and Nicole saw them again. I pounced again and got ‘em. My knee was bleeding, but I miraculously had
my glasses, and the sea was salty enough to kill most anything. At least I hope. So we swam a bit longer, did another stealth
costume change, and found another corn on the cob guy.
Proud to say that my driving and navigation were pretty
good. Through no fault of my own,
though, the tuna can did sustain a minor injury, one to match my knee gash I
guess. Driving back to Sharjah, a car in
front of us hit something in the road—looked like a piece of coil or heavy
cable maybe—and the object came flying at us and hit the front bumper. Not a big deal at all, but it punctured a
hole in the bumper. Here’s where being
married to a lawyer comes in handy.
Nicole went straight to the rental agreement which said that the car’s
insurance covers just about any type of damage the car sustains but only if you
file a police report. To the little
police station right by campus. Super
nice Sharjah cop totally appreciated the rudimentary Arabic I spoke with him
but luckily also spoke English. He took
down all the information and said the police would issue the report in three
business days after they wait to see if anybody else (e.g., the person who hit
the coil to begin with) also files a report about the incident. Strange, but we’re cautiously optimistic it
all works out.
Stay tuned, readers—and I don’t just mean to see how my knee
and insurance claim work out. We kept
our slightly dinged tuna can and are tentatively planning to drive to Abu Dhabi
tomorrow.
Wednesday, May 8, 2013
A couple news hits
Campus was briefly on lockdown this afternoon after the imam of the our University's mosque was attacked by a former student and stabbed. Campus police quickly caught the man, the lockdown is over, and everybody is now safe. Here's the story from the Gulf News.
Also in today's news, a woman accused of consensual sex (a crime in the UAE) has made waves in Dubai by refusing the judge's suggestion that she marry the dude in order to receive a lighter sentence. Really fascinating story on several levels. Check it out.
Also in today's news, a woman accused of consensual sex (a crime in the UAE) has made waves in Dubai by refusing the judge's suggestion that she marry the dude in order to receive a lighter sentence. Really fascinating story on several levels. Check it out.
Wednesday, April 24, 2013
Trethewey and Merrill
My campus hosted two major U.S. poets this week: Natasha Trethewey (current poet laureate) and Christopher Merrill. They gave a master class for our English majors and faculty and shared some useful ideas and insights. Some random things I jotted down for future reference/use/reading:
- Trethewey often consults the OED, sometimes looking up every single work she uses in a given poem. This allows her to consider secondary and tertiary meanings of words, connotations, implications, and etymologies. Could be a cool assignment for students?
- "Make a house for the reader to inhabit," Trethewey's shorthand for writing reader-based poems. She stressed the value of accessibility and the need to re-imagine and re-frame experiences so they're relevant to others as well. Avoid self-indulgence!
- Merrill: Emily Dickinson wrote 400 poems in 1862 and didn't mention the Civil War (explicitly) a single time.
- Both: poets are in conversation with one another, so read widely. Play with call-and-response. Merrill talked about a project (that may or may not "go anywhere") where he and a writer-friend send prose-poems back and forth to one another. A kind of collaboration or mutual inquiry.
- Find the essay "The Display of Mackerel" (?) by Mark Doty.
- Write about everyday objects. Have students write about everyday objects. Start with at least 3-4 lines of description before imposing any metaphors, judgments, rhetorical statements, comparisons, etc. Share Charles Simic's "Fork." Brilliant piece.
- Trethewey: big fan of writing about a photograph, painting, poem, or film. Pieces of art are writing prompts.
- Charles Simic's "1938." Write about your year-of-both. Just make a series of declarations. Facts about the year. See what develops. Cool idea for class, though it would be a BUNCH of poems about 1995!
Entertaining, Part 3
Didn't get home from Jordan until 2:00 a.m. early Saturday morning. Back in Sharjah and happy to be reunited with Nicole, I got a good night's sleep. Steve and Tony did too. I dashed over to the student union to get some cough drops (I was losing my voice) and some coffee for my brother and got up everybody up and ready to roll by Noon or so. Our friend Rana and her kids Majdoline and Bader swung by to pick us up to go to Dubai. Majdoline suggested a Palestinian-owned restaurant in the city called Mezza House, where the Syrian chef is creative and quite skilled. Definitely a fancier place than where Nicole and I generally eat, this was a treat, especially the fried kibbeh with pomegranate, the mint lemonade, and the musakhan (chicken and spices, including lots of onion and sumac, rolled up in pieces of bread--a Palestinian specialty). Across the street to Dubai Mall and the entrance to Burj Khalifa, the world's tallest building. The seven of us headed up to the lookout deck, take loads of pictures, and generally monkey around. It was a nice way to spend Steve's last day--visiting, eating well, passing the time with friends.
Rana got us all tickets for the Syrian cultural club's folkloric program on campus that night, but my brother had to prep for his flight so we all headed back to AUS and the main building, where Tony and Steve said their farewells. I walked Steve back to the apartment, where he finished packing and checked on his flight. He set off for the airport and I stowed away in his taxi for a ride across campus, where I joined the Syrian program already in progress. Tony and Nicole were with Rana and family up front but I didn't want to disturb anybody's view so I hung back most of the night. The Syrian club did a really great job, putting on a kind of variety show featuring poetry, song, and dance, not to mention the interpretive drama they wrote and produced for Global Day. Really lovely stuff.
And then there were three.
I had to teach early the next month and my voice was just about non-existent. Luckily students were bringing in drafts to workshop, so much of class they were reading and discussing each other's works-in-progress with minimal intervention from me. After class and office hours, Nicole and I took Tony back to the Central Souk as T. wanted to get a dishdasha in order to carry out his master plan of wearing traditional Arab garb all the way from Sharjah to San Francisco. He found a deal, then we took a warm (HOT) walk to the Afghan restaurant we like, Afghani al Kabab, home of the "family seating" section where they make women/mixed gender groups sit (i.e., in a booth that has a shower curtain to keep us out of sight of other [male] customers). Delicious chunks of meal and chicken with lots of garlic and black pepper, served with "polaw" (kind of like a biryani but even more flavorful). It was cloudy--weird!--so we took advantage. The three of us strolled on the corniche, along with water, and popped into several kitchen stores, making our way to the public beach in town, where Tony and I took a dip in the Persian Gulf--he hadn't yet gotten to do that, believe it or not.
The next day, Tony's last, was one final day to take advantage of cultural opportunities. Rana's former student manages the Islamic Museum in town and got us some v.i.p. treatment at what is Sharjah's underrated gem. The Islamic Museum boasts beautiful, priceless artwork and cultural artifact's from Islam's entire history. You can't help but learn about the faith there. In particular, their artifacts and displays focusing on the haaj are memorable and enlightening. Mohammad, Rana's student, spent much of the day with us (when he wasn't taking meetings), and treated us to coffee twice and tea once, even giving us all kinds of goodies to take home, including copies of one of the museum's coffee table guidebooks. This is one of my favorite places in the UAE, no exaggeration. We grabbed a quick bite at Kalha, the Palestinian place in Sharjah with the best hummus in the world, then back to campus just in time for the poetry reading featuring Christopher Merrill and U.S. poet laureate Natasha Trethewey, who both did a bang-up job. Trethewey's elegies were especially powerful and, hey, it was an honor to see a sitting poet laureate read. Nicole and I both accompanied Tony to the airport on the Metro and were pretty sad to see him go. It's so quiet around here now--less laughing without T in the house! But what a trip. Man, did we pack in the activity. Two days later, I'm still exhausted.
And then there were two.
Rana got us all tickets for the Syrian cultural club's folkloric program on campus that night, but my brother had to prep for his flight so we all headed back to AUS and the main building, where Tony and Steve said their farewells. I walked Steve back to the apartment, where he finished packing and checked on his flight. He set off for the airport and I stowed away in his taxi for a ride across campus, where I joined the Syrian program already in progress. Tony and Nicole were with Rana and family up front but I didn't want to disturb anybody's view so I hung back most of the night. The Syrian club did a really great job, putting on a kind of variety show featuring poetry, song, and dance, not to mention the interpretive drama they wrote and produced for Global Day. Really lovely stuff.
And then there were three.
I had to teach early the next month and my voice was just about non-existent. Luckily students were bringing in drafts to workshop, so much of class they were reading and discussing each other's works-in-progress with minimal intervention from me. After class and office hours, Nicole and I took Tony back to the Central Souk as T. wanted to get a dishdasha in order to carry out his master plan of wearing traditional Arab garb all the way from Sharjah to San Francisco. He found a deal, then we took a warm (HOT) walk to the Afghan restaurant we like, Afghani al Kabab, home of the "family seating" section where they make women/mixed gender groups sit (i.e., in a booth that has a shower curtain to keep us out of sight of other [male] customers). Delicious chunks of meal and chicken with lots of garlic and black pepper, served with "polaw" (kind of like a biryani but even more flavorful). It was cloudy--weird!--so we took advantage. The three of us strolled on the corniche, along with water, and popped into several kitchen stores, making our way to the public beach in town, where Tony and I took a dip in the Persian Gulf--he hadn't yet gotten to do that, believe it or not.
The next day, Tony's last, was one final day to take advantage of cultural opportunities. Rana's former student manages the Islamic Museum in town and got us some v.i.p. treatment at what is Sharjah's underrated gem. The Islamic Museum boasts beautiful, priceless artwork and cultural artifact's from Islam's entire history. You can't help but learn about the faith there. In particular, their artifacts and displays focusing on the haaj are memorable and enlightening. Mohammad, Rana's student, spent much of the day with us (when he wasn't taking meetings), and treated us to coffee twice and tea once, even giving us all kinds of goodies to take home, including copies of one of the museum's coffee table guidebooks. This is one of my favorite places in the UAE, no exaggeration. We grabbed a quick bite at Kalha, the Palestinian place in Sharjah with the best hummus in the world, then back to campus just in time for the poetry reading featuring Christopher Merrill and U.S. poet laureate Natasha Trethewey, who both did a bang-up job. Trethewey's elegies were especially powerful and, hey, it was an honor to see a sitting poet laureate read. Nicole and I both accompanied Tony to the airport on the Metro and were pretty sad to see him go. It's so quiet around here now--less laughing without T in the house! But what a trip. Man, did we pack in the activity. Two days later, I'm still exhausted.
And then there were two.
Tuesday, April 23, 2013
Entertaining, Part 2
So my brother Steve arrived last Sunday, April 14, although who can tell? The past two weeks are blurry. I whipped up a quick vegetarian biryani that night and Rana sent over a middle-eastern style rice pudding. I took Steve on a walking tour of campus and then he was ready for rest so we could start partying on Monday. We decided to do a morning jaunt to Sharjah and then head straight to Dubai. Who knew Nicole and Steve would be such great tag-team partners in the souks? They managed to get some good deals for my brother, who really liked the blue souk (aka, Islamic souk, aka Central souk) and got, among other things, a beautiful table cloth from Afghanistan. Tony, Nicole, Steve, and I spent the better part of the morning there, soaking up (theoretically at least) the a.c. for our walk across town, past the fish and livestock markets, to Al Maskoof, the great Iraqi restaurant in Sharjah City. My favorite thing there is the tea, which led to this classic language misunderstanding: After eating shish tawook sandwiches, bread from Al Maskoof's tanoor oven, and hummus, and enjoying some tea of course, I asked for the "check." The waiter said something like "for four?" and seemed surprised. I nodded, and he promptly brought four more teas. "Check" and "Shay" sound an awful lot alike.
Quick taxi ride into Dubai to the nearest Metro Station so we can jump on the train to the creek in Bur Dubai, where we rode the abras (only one dirham...about a quarter U.S.!), and walked through the old city, including even more souks. It was hot, but we had a nice time. Tony was generous enough to whip out his awesome new glass tea cups that night, when Rana and her daughter Majdoline came over to the apartment that night. So cool to introduce folks from two different sides of the world. That might be my favorite thing about family coming to visit the region when we're here.
Next morning, crack of dawn flight to Jordan for Steve, Tony, and me. The Emirates are interesting, but there's nothing like the Levant (Lebanon, Jordan, Syria, and Palestine) for hospitality and, in that regard, our Jordan jaunt didn't disappoint. Our driver, Alaa, took us to North Amman where my friend Dr. Rima was waiting. I met Rima at a conference last year and we've kept in touch. She and her husband Basel had stuffed zucchini and grape leaves, chicken, potatoes and salads, hummus and moutabel. Best of all: the most amazing kanafeh I've had--not as syrupy as most, so the flavor of the cheese was dominant. So good. Catching up with a colleague and friend as excellent as Dr. Rima was a treat. Her lunch put me to sleep much of the drive down to Petra. We spent much of the evening swimming and snapping photos.
Next morning, we set off early for the old city. Petra might be my favorite single place in the Mideast, and our drive made the great suggestion of starting well ahead of the crowds. Visiting old Petra involves hiking. Loads of hiking. Surrounded by the ancient stone structures on every side of you, the first goal is to make it to the treasury, the facade made famous by the third Indiana Jones movie that was partially filmed there. Our guide, Ali, was a cool bedouin gentleman who without irony said things like "people think you can't walk here," while pointing to a sign that says "do not walk here." All the way to the treasury, he directed us to the best nooks and crannies of the ancient Nabatean city, full of caves, graves, sacrificial spots, and residential structures (everything made from Petra's red stone). It's a lot of walking and worth every step. Petra gives you one beautiful view after another. The treasury affords a good resting spot where you can get some super sweet tea and chill out while taking the inevitable slew of pics. As is customary, our guide left us after we reached the Roman Road, a promenade of temples and ruins from the brief period when the Roman Empire held hegemony. So we climbed the approximately 900 steps up to the monastery, the other grand facade within Petra. We took it slow but made it and Tony and I continued to explore paths and diversions while Steve rested. We found some white knuckle views of the Tomb of Aaron (brother of Moses), the wadis (DEEP valleys), and the eerily named Sacrifice Point. We came across an old man making tea who shared some with us (tea is a big deal in Jordan and delicious too), then listened to him play a flute. Surreal. Spent the whole day in Petra, wandering, climbing, playing, taking pictures. Magical spot, no joke. More swimming that night, this time to help the joints and muscles recover from the hiking.
Next morning, to Mt. Nebo, where Moses glimpsed the promised land. The Byzantine church there is being remodeled by the Franciscans, but you can still enjoy the lovely views of Palestine and Israel. It was clear so we could see Jerusalem and Jericho with no problem. We then went to Bethany and the spot on the Jordan where John baptized Jesus. Said a prayer, got in the water up to our knees, and was amazed at the lack of security, given how close Israel is (maybe 25 feet across the river is Jericho). Luckily, the border here is peaceful unlike, say, Lebanon. We drove to the Dead Sea, where I wanted Steve to have plenty of time to enjoy the spa-like amenities. Tony and I wandered (common motif) and found a neat tavern of sorts that served arak, the Lebanese/Jordanian beverage that Tony wanted to sample. Cool place with the traditional Arab seating (low benches covered with cushions along the walls of the place). Bartender even sliced up a cucumber for us and squeezed some lemon over it. We all hopped in the Dead Sea and floated. We covered ourselves with the famous, therapeutic sea mud, but mostly we lounged poolside. Steve got a dead sea mud facial (didn't make sense, to my anyway to pay for something that was free down by the water itself!) and a massage. Couldn't have been more relaxing.
Next day we went back to Dr. Rima's for another amazing meal. Big pieces of lamb shank, more hummus and salad and coffee and tea and baked goodies. Highlight was most definitely Rima's kefta bil tahineh. Meat baked in a "gravy" made from tahini, lemon, garlic, and salt, thinned with water. Couldn't get enough of the stuff. We were all hooked. A great way to end our time in Jordan.
COMING UP...more revelry in the Emirates and then there were two
Quick taxi ride into Dubai to the nearest Metro Station so we can jump on the train to the creek in Bur Dubai, where we rode the abras (only one dirham...about a quarter U.S.!), and walked through the old city, including even more souks. It was hot, but we had a nice time. Tony was generous enough to whip out his awesome new glass tea cups that night, when Rana and her daughter Majdoline came over to the apartment that night. So cool to introduce folks from two different sides of the world. That might be my favorite thing about family coming to visit the region when we're here.
Next morning, crack of dawn flight to Jordan for Steve, Tony, and me. The Emirates are interesting, but there's nothing like the Levant (Lebanon, Jordan, Syria, and Palestine) for hospitality and, in that regard, our Jordan jaunt didn't disappoint. Our driver, Alaa, took us to North Amman where my friend Dr. Rima was waiting. I met Rima at a conference last year and we've kept in touch. She and her husband Basel had stuffed zucchini and grape leaves, chicken, potatoes and salads, hummus and moutabel. Best of all: the most amazing kanafeh I've had--not as syrupy as most, so the flavor of the cheese was dominant. So good. Catching up with a colleague and friend as excellent as Dr. Rima was a treat. Her lunch put me to sleep much of the drive down to Petra. We spent much of the evening swimming and snapping photos.
Next morning, we set off early for the old city. Petra might be my favorite single place in the Mideast, and our drive made the great suggestion of starting well ahead of the crowds. Visiting old Petra involves hiking. Loads of hiking. Surrounded by the ancient stone structures on every side of you, the first goal is to make it to the treasury, the facade made famous by the third Indiana Jones movie that was partially filmed there. Our guide, Ali, was a cool bedouin gentleman who without irony said things like "people think you can't walk here," while pointing to a sign that says "do not walk here." All the way to the treasury, he directed us to the best nooks and crannies of the ancient Nabatean city, full of caves, graves, sacrificial spots, and residential structures (everything made from Petra's red stone). It's a lot of walking and worth every step. Petra gives you one beautiful view after another. The treasury affords a good resting spot where you can get some super sweet tea and chill out while taking the inevitable slew of pics. As is customary, our guide left us after we reached the Roman Road, a promenade of temples and ruins from the brief period when the Roman Empire held hegemony. So we climbed the approximately 900 steps up to the monastery, the other grand facade within Petra. We took it slow but made it and Tony and I continued to explore paths and diversions while Steve rested. We found some white knuckle views of the Tomb of Aaron (brother of Moses), the wadis (DEEP valleys), and the eerily named Sacrifice Point. We came across an old man making tea who shared some with us (tea is a big deal in Jordan and delicious too), then listened to him play a flute. Surreal. Spent the whole day in Petra, wandering, climbing, playing, taking pictures. Magical spot, no joke. More swimming that night, this time to help the joints and muscles recover from the hiking.
Next morning, to Mt. Nebo, where Moses glimpsed the promised land. The Byzantine church there is being remodeled by the Franciscans, but you can still enjoy the lovely views of Palestine and Israel. It was clear so we could see Jerusalem and Jericho with no problem. We then went to Bethany and the spot on the Jordan where John baptized Jesus. Said a prayer, got in the water up to our knees, and was amazed at the lack of security, given how close Israel is (maybe 25 feet across the river is Jericho). Luckily, the border here is peaceful unlike, say, Lebanon. We drove to the Dead Sea, where I wanted Steve to have plenty of time to enjoy the spa-like amenities. Tony and I wandered (common motif) and found a neat tavern of sorts that served arak, the Lebanese/Jordanian beverage that Tony wanted to sample. Cool place with the traditional Arab seating (low benches covered with cushions along the walls of the place). Bartender even sliced up a cucumber for us and squeezed some lemon over it. We all hopped in the Dead Sea and floated. We covered ourselves with the famous, therapeutic sea mud, but mostly we lounged poolside. Steve got a dead sea mud facial (didn't make sense, to my anyway to pay for something that was free down by the water itself!) and a massage. Couldn't have been more relaxing.
Next day we went back to Dr. Rima's for another amazing meal. Big pieces of lamb shank, more hummus and salad and coffee and tea and baked goodies. Highlight was most definitely Rima's kefta bil tahineh. Meat baked in a "gravy" made from tahini, lemon, garlic, and salt, thinned with water. Couldn't get enough of the stuff. We were all hooked. A great way to end our time in Jordan.
COMING UP...more revelry in the Emirates and then there were two
Saturday, April 20, 2013
Entertaining
So much to say about the past two weeks! Nephew Tony arrived and immediately got acclimated to Middle East life with his Aunt Nicole and Uncle Bill. He joined me in my English 204 class on a day when students were workshopping essay drafts, observed the proceedings, and even chatted up a few students afterward. We swam on campus and worked out (good way to recover from that long flight), and, not wanting to waste any time, went on desert safari his first day here.
The safaris are great fun, if somewhat corny. You go out "dune bashing" in the middle of the desert. That means, riding around in Land Rovers at ridiculous speeds and coming perilously close to flipping. This is one of Nicole's favorite things to do in the Mideast, which is funny given how safety conscious she always is. After dune bashing, the jeeps drop you off at a camp where you can enjoy bbq, camel rides, and sand skiing. We did all of the above, aside from Nicole taking a pass on the camel. Great pictures, but the sand killed our camera. Rest in peace. Did I mention how sandy the desert is in Dubai? When the wind kicks up, you can barely see in front of you. It's hell on camera lenses.
We kicked around Sharjah City the next day, taking in the Sheikh's special Egypt exhibit at the Art Museum in town and attending Heritage Days, a neat bedouin/emirati festival in the old section of the city. Highlight (you know it's going to be food, right?) had to be the flat saj on which an emirati woman was making a very flat bread, almost like crepe. She spread the batter on the hot surface for a minute, then cracked an egg on top and spread/scrambled the egg over the batter, then dropped a few dollops of yogurt and spread that over the now mostly scrambled egg. Fold it up, and there you go. Really delicious.
And then, my brother Steve arrived. Since we had to go to Dubai to meet up with Steve, Tony and I left early and went to the Jumeirah Mosque, the only Mosque in town that welcomes non-Muslims. They do an educational program there each morning (except for Fridays, the most important day of prayer) that's super informative. Kind of an Islam 101, sponsored by the ruling families who want the many non-Muslims in the Emirates to have at least a sense of the faith. With a little more knowledge than we had before, we headed to the airport and met up with Steve, who arrived safe, sound, and wanting Starbucks.
Coming up next: And then there were four (Nicole, Steve, Tony, yours truly)...
The safaris are great fun, if somewhat corny. You go out "dune bashing" in the middle of the desert. That means, riding around in Land Rovers at ridiculous speeds and coming perilously close to flipping. This is one of Nicole's favorite things to do in the Mideast, which is funny given how safety conscious she always is. After dune bashing, the jeeps drop you off at a camp where you can enjoy bbq, camel rides, and sand skiing. We did all of the above, aside from Nicole taking a pass on the camel. Great pictures, but the sand killed our camera. Rest in peace. Did I mention how sandy the desert is in Dubai? When the wind kicks up, you can barely see in front of you. It's hell on camera lenses.
We kicked around Sharjah City the next day, taking in the Sheikh's special Egypt exhibit at the Art Museum in town and attending Heritage Days, a neat bedouin/emirati festival in the old section of the city. Highlight (you know it's going to be food, right?) had to be the flat saj on which an emirati woman was making a very flat bread, almost like crepe. She spread the batter on the hot surface for a minute, then cracked an egg on top and spread/scrambled the egg over the batter, then dropped a few dollops of yogurt and spread that over the now mostly scrambled egg. Fold it up, and there you go. Really delicious.
And then, my brother Steve arrived. Since we had to go to Dubai to meet up with Steve, Tony and I left early and went to the Jumeirah Mosque, the only Mosque in town that welcomes non-Muslims. They do an educational program there each morning (except for Fridays, the most important day of prayer) that's super informative. Kind of an Islam 101, sponsored by the ruling families who want the many non-Muslims in the Emirates to have at least a sense of the faith. With a little more knowledge than we had before, we headed to the airport and met up with Steve, who arrived safe, sound, and wanting Starbucks.
Coming up next: And then there were four (Nicole, Steve, Tony, yours truly)...
Wednesday, April 10, 2013
Guests
Nicole and I are so excited to have visitors very, very soon. Our nephew Tony arrives tonight; he'll be blogging his trip here and he's a great writer so you should follow the link. My brother Steve arrives a few days later. Crazy times in Sharjah, Dubai, and Jordan are likely and I'll try to post pictures and thoughts here. Tony came to see us in Lebanon as well and his visit was definitely a highlight of the year in Beirut, as he's always up for unusual experiences. Can't wait...
Saturday, April 6, 2013
Found Poetry
The good folks at Connotation Press published my essay "Found Poetry," a piece I wrote about my grandfather and namesake. Click here to read.
Spring Break in Armenia
On Good Friday we flew to Yerevan, Armenia, and I think we were the only two people on board not bringing along a flat-screen tv. I think Samsung was giving away televisions to anybody buying a ticket to a former Soviet state. The plane was full of Armenian ex-pat workers going home for Easter weekend and the moment wheels touched down they were up, ignoring announcements telling them to sit. As we taxied, one guy even asked the still-seated Nicole and me what we were waiting for.
Armenia suffers high unemployment and men in particular often find work in the Middle East and elsewhere, leaving behind families when necessary. Like much of the former Soviet Union, Armenia had manufactured goods for the rest of the empire; those jobs disappeared when the USSR collapsed. But Armenians are proud of the brandy and other boozes they make. Most restaurants offer lengthy vodka lists, including their own in-house, homemade selections.
We stayed at a bed and breakfast in the middle of downtown Yerevan. A social service agency called Family Care operates the b&b as a way to help sustain their services like teaching art and traditional crafts to developmentally disabled kids. The place is full of pottery, textiles, and macrame rope hangings that line the rickety wood stairs up to the bedrooms. Breakfast there was pretty simple (tea, bread, cheese) but always included a variety of amazing preserves made from walnuts, apricots, etc.
For a capital, Yerevan is laid back. Nicole and I walking through parks, all full of old guys playing enthusiastic rounds of backgammon and other games. Also, young lovers on park benches. Public displays of affection between men and women are strictly forbidden in Sharjah; they are encouraged in Armenia. Mass on Easter Sunday seemed like an extension of the love Armenians have for socializing. At Etchmiadzin, the Holy See of the Armenian Church (like their Vatican), church-goers would wander into the cathedral for part of Mass and then go outside with their friends and spend time chilling on benches, smoking and chatting. Inside, the Catolicos (the patriarch of the Armenian rite church) was saying Mass and Nicole and I followed the crowd, spending part of Mass inside with him and part of the time outside soaking up the sun.
We saw a lot of sites, including the memorial to the 1915 genocide, Lake Sevan, the first century pre-Christian temple at Garni, a winery in the Ararat region, and Matenadaran--a rare manuscript repository with biblical and hellenistic translations and early literature and holy writings in the Armenian language. The place is a virtual shrine to Mesrop Mashtots, a kind of patriarch and nationalist figure known for developing the Armenian alphabet in the 300s and 400s, soon after Armenia became Christian. Numerous monasteries and chapels from the Middle Ages were highlights too and definitely give visitors a fast education in the Armenian church and its history: chapels devoted to 7th Century virgin martyrs, cave monasteries carved by monks in the 1200s, a cathedral built over the cell where St. Gregory the Illuminator was imprisoned (and a ladder you can climb down into his "pit," where pilgrims light candles that barely get enough oxygen to stay lighted).
We tended to eat at downtown's "Caucus taverns." They're very inexpensive and have foods from the whole Caucus region (mainly Armenia and Georgia, as there are political tensions with Azerbaijan). Harissa, also popular in Lebanon and Iraq, is a staple here: a kind of porridge made of wheat and shredded chicken and shared with neighbors and the needy in Christian Armenia, similar to the Shi'a tradition of sharing pots of harissa with pilgrims and others during memorials and holidays like Ashura. Also delicious was a Georgian dish called satsivi, pieces of chicken cooked and served in a walnut sauce you can dip bread in (some call it the Georgian version of hummus), and also a dish called khorjine, a kind of meat pie baked in a pastry shell (think of shepherd's pie, or beef wellington, but with more herbs and veggies).
My friend Ara hooked me up with some great colleagues at the American University of Armenia who are starting a writing center and we spent a nice morning brainstorming about ideas and strategies; hope to work with them again. So the week wasn't entirely taverns and monasteries!
Click here for Nicole's photo album of Armenia.
Armenia suffers high unemployment and men in particular often find work in the Middle East and elsewhere, leaving behind families when necessary. Like much of the former Soviet Union, Armenia had manufactured goods for the rest of the empire; those jobs disappeared when the USSR collapsed. But Armenians are proud of the brandy and other boozes they make. Most restaurants offer lengthy vodka lists, including their own in-house, homemade selections.
We stayed at a bed and breakfast in the middle of downtown Yerevan. A social service agency called Family Care operates the b&b as a way to help sustain their services like teaching art and traditional crafts to developmentally disabled kids. The place is full of pottery, textiles, and macrame rope hangings that line the rickety wood stairs up to the bedrooms. Breakfast there was pretty simple (tea, bread, cheese) but always included a variety of amazing preserves made from walnuts, apricots, etc.
For a capital, Yerevan is laid back. Nicole and I walking through parks, all full of old guys playing enthusiastic rounds of backgammon and other games. Also, young lovers on park benches. Public displays of affection between men and women are strictly forbidden in Sharjah; they are encouraged in Armenia. Mass on Easter Sunday seemed like an extension of the love Armenians have for socializing. At Etchmiadzin, the Holy See of the Armenian Church (like their Vatican), church-goers would wander into the cathedral for part of Mass and then go outside with their friends and spend time chilling on benches, smoking and chatting. Inside, the Catolicos (the patriarch of the Armenian rite church) was saying Mass and Nicole and I followed the crowd, spending part of Mass inside with him and part of the time outside soaking up the sun.
We saw a lot of sites, including the memorial to the 1915 genocide, Lake Sevan, the first century pre-Christian temple at Garni, a winery in the Ararat region, and Matenadaran--a rare manuscript repository with biblical and hellenistic translations and early literature and holy writings in the Armenian language. The place is a virtual shrine to Mesrop Mashtots, a kind of patriarch and nationalist figure known for developing the Armenian alphabet in the 300s and 400s, soon after Armenia became Christian. Numerous monasteries and chapels from the Middle Ages were highlights too and definitely give visitors a fast education in the Armenian church and its history: chapels devoted to 7th Century virgin martyrs, cave monasteries carved by monks in the 1200s, a cathedral built over the cell where St. Gregory the Illuminator was imprisoned (and a ladder you can climb down into his "pit," where pilgrims light candles that barely get enough oxygen to stay lighted).
We tended to eat at downtown's "Caucus taverns." They're very inexpensive and have foods from the whole Caucus region (mainly Armenia and Georgia, as there are political tensions with Azerbaijan). Harissa, also popular in Lebanon and Iraq, is a staple here: a kind of porridge made of wheat and shredded chicken and shared with neighbors and the needy in Christian Armenia, similar to the Shi'a tradition of sharing pots of harissa with pilgrims and others during memorials and holidays like Ashura. Also delicious was a Georgian dish called satsivi, pieces of chicken cooked and served in a walnut sauce you can dip bread in (some call it the Georgian version of hummus), and also a dish called khorjine, a kind of meat pie baked in a pastry shell (think of shepherd's pie, or beef wellington, but with more herbs and veggies).
My friend Ara hooked me up with some great colleagues at the American University of Armenia who are starting a writing center and we spent a nice morning brainstorming about ideas and strategies; hope to work with them again. So the week wasn't entirely taverns and monasteries!
Click here for Nicole's photo album of Armenia.
Monday, March 25, 2013
A bachelor no more
Nicole arrived safely late last night. I took the Metro to the Dubai airport early to wait for her, which gave me time to study my Arabic lessons and worry. I was extra anxious about all the little things that my brain told me could go wrong: customs might not approve of one of the entries (Syria? Egypt?) recorded in her passport, passport control might question why she's getting a 30-day entry visa when her return ticket isn't for another two months (she plans to exit and re-enter U.A.E. at least once or twice thereby re-starting the 30 days), etc, etc. Alas, no problems. Can't say how great it was to see her making her way past the car rental kiosks! We grabbed a taxi and made it back to Sharjah by 2:00 a.m., too late for a school night. Yep, got to my 8:00am class on time today. Welcome, Nicole. Three days until Spring Break. Three days until we leave for Armenia.
Sunday, March 24, 2013
Globish 101
Last week Jack Richards gave a lecture on campus. Professor Richards lectures internationally on foreign language teaching and had some interesting things to say about world Englishes. Example: globally, most "English teachers" (of course this means different things in different contexts) are non-native speakers of English who have intermediate proficiency in English. Not surprising when you stop and think about the reach of the language and the increasing amounts of cultural and material capital English has, but kind of interesting, no? If you're reading this in the U.S., think about that for a minute. Most English teachers are not from North American, Australia, or the United Kingdom. Most have not attained what applied linguistics consider "advanced" proficiency.
Advanced competence can be helpful for some facets of language teaching (having a larger vocabulary) but not others (knowing effective teaching methods). Same goes for being a native speaker, which can mean, for instance, better pronunciation. However, non-native speakers have a "been there" advantage when it comes to effectively teaching other non-native speakers: non-native speakers know to avoid excessive idioms--in Sharjah, I sometimes catch myself while teaching when I'm about to repeat some little expression or saying--and often can better articulate grammatical concepts since native speakers have internalized those concepts since they were little kids.
Speaking of idioms, Richards also reviewed some of the latest literature on the status of what's sometimes called "English as an International Language," which essentially refers to English as a lingua franca, a shared language among various groups whose first language isn't English. This concept is familiar to anybody here in Sharjah, where English is the language usually used by Pakistani taxi drivers talking to American teachers and Arab business owners talking to Indian engineers! As the economy shifts and political changes happen, no single race, ethnic group, or political entity can control the language. So there are all kinds of interesting, cosmopolitan things happening to Englishes around the globe, aka, Globish, the popular book by Robert McCrum that Professor Richards referenced. In some countries, EIL textbooks and curriculum are teaching an ultra-neutral form of English, mostly free of idioms and expressions and cultural specificity. A standard English designed specifically for those "lingua franca" situations in business, scientific, and academic settings.
Thanks to Richards for visiting campus and giving a nice overview. Made me wish I had taken more applied linguistics and ESL courses back in grad school. The "Globish" issues are especially provocative. When I studied Spanish, learning about the culture was probably the reason it was my favorite class in high school and college. As I learn Arabic, the language sheds light on assumptions and attitudes and values. So it's odd to think about these lingua franca versions of English that strip away culture and aim for some kind of neutrality. And that's the real kicker--there never can be total neutrality, can there? You'll never fully wipe a language "clean," though I understand why, say, a scientific journal publishing research from around the world might want to. But doesn't acceptance of English as a lingua franca signify just that: acceptance? I hope adoption of "English as an International Language" doesn't mean uncritical adoption. There's a lot of research--both empirical and theoretical--looking at the implications of "lingua franca" moments/contexts, and there needs to be more. Yet another reason why this book, which brings together my own field (rhetoric and composition) and applied linguistics, strikes me as one of the most interesting and important texts in years.
Advanced competence can be helpful for some facets of language teaching (having a larger vocabulary) but not others (knowing effective teaching methods). Same goes for being a native speaker, which can mean, for instance, better pronunciation. However, non-native speakers have a "been there" advantage when it comes to effectively teaching other non-native speakers: non-native speakers know to avoid excessive idioms--in Sharjah, I sometimes catch myself while teaching when I'm about to repeat some little expression or saying--and often can better articulate grammatical concepts since native speakers have internalized those concepts since they were little kids.
Speaking of idioms, Richards also reviewed some of the latest literature on the status of what's sometimes called "English as an International Language," which essentially refers to English as a lingua franca, a shared language among various groups whose first language isn't English. This concept is familiar to anybody here in Sharjah, where English is the language usually used by Pakistani taxi drivers talking to American teachers and Arab business owners talking to Indian engineers! As the economy shifts and political changes happen, no single race, ethnic group, or political entity can control the language. So there are all kinds of interesting, cosmopolitan things happening to Englishes around the globe, aka, Globish, the popular book by Robert McCrum that Professor Richards referenced. In some countries, EIL textbooks and curriculum are teaching an ultra-neutral form of English, mostly free of idioms and expressions and cultural specificity. A standard English designed specifically for those "lingua franca" situations in business, scientific, and academic settings.
Thanks to Richards for visiting campus and giving a nice overview. Made me wish I had taken more applied linguistics and ESL courses back in grad school. The "Globish" issues are especially provocative. When I studied Spanish, learning about the culture was probably the reason it was my favorite class in high school and college. As I learn Arabic, the language sheds light on assumptions and attitudes and values. So it's odd to think about these lingua franca versions of English that strip away culture and aim for some kind of neutrality. And that's the real kicker--there never can be total neutrality, can there? You'll never fully wipe a language "clean," though I understand why, say, a scientific journal publishing research from around the world might want to. But doesn't acceptance of English as a lingua franca signify just that: acceptance? I hope adoption of "English as an International Language" doesn't mean uncritical adoption. There's a lot of research--both empirical and theoretical--looking at the implications of "lingua franca" moments/contexts, and there needs to be more. Yet another reason why this book, which brings together my own field (rhetoric and composition) and applied linguistics, strikes me as one of the most interesting and important texts in years.
Saturday, March 23, 2013
Taking risks
One of the things I love about spending time in the Middle East is the opportunity to try things outside of my own usual sphere, whether a new food or a new experience. So on Friday, I jumped on the opportunity to try Extreme Frisbee. One of my nephews played the sport in college and loved it and he encouraged me to take the inevitable risk involved when trying something wholly new. My campus hosted a hat tournament in which newbies were welcome. Extreme frisbee's kind of like soccer meets basketball meets tossing around a frisbee and involves a ton of running. Two days later, I'm still sore.
Really interesting group of people play "extreme" (see, I know some lingo!) in the UAE. Mostly expats (80% of the people here are expats so it stands to reason...) from the U.S., or expats from India or elsewhere who went to University in the U.S. and got hooked on the game. I met a ton of high school teachers from Abu Dhabi, Dubai, and even Bahrain and Oman (they flew to UAE for the tournament) who work at private schools--international baccalaureate academies, British secondary schools, and the like. A few came because the job market is lousy for English and social studies teachers in the U.S., some for the money and perks, some for the challenge and fun of teaching abroad. A lot of these teaching gigs pay very well (tax-free!) and include one or two flights back home each year, sometimes housing too.
Anyhow, I didn't make too much of a fool of myself on the field and got some great exercise. Met some interesting people and tried something I definitely would not have tried in the U.S. too.
Really interesting group of people play "extreme" (see, I know some lingo!) in the UAE. Mostly expats (80% of the people here are expats so it stands to reason...) from the U.S., or expats from India or elsewhere who went to University in the U.S. and got hooked on the game. I met a ton of high school teachers from Abu Dhabi, Dubai, and even Bahrain and Oman (they flew to UAE for the tournament) who work at private schools--international baccalaureate academies, British secondary schools, and the like. A few came because the job market is lousy for English and social studies teachers in the U.S., some for the money and perks, some for the challenge and fun of teaching abroad. A lot of these teaching gigs pay very well (tax-free!) and include one or two flights back home each year, sometimes housing too.
Anyhow, I didn't make too much of a fool of myself on the field and got some great exercise. Met some interesting people and tried something I definitely would not have tried in the U.S. too.
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